Traces of the ancient city of Puteoli, as Pozzuoli was called, are
ubiquitous. The Nero-Flavian amphitheater (tel. +39.081.5266007)
is located in the hillier region, outside the port proper, in the
Via Terracciano. Close by, the walls of the baths of Neptune are
striking, though to keep them preserved, the visitor must view them
from a distance. The same is true for the necropolis in the Via
Celle and the ancient marketplace, or macellum, in the port area.
The ruins of the sea-sunken portion of Puteoli, known as the portus
Julus, can be viewed by booking a glass-bottom boat tour. Trips
depart on Saturdays and Sundays (contact the Eliseo Association,
tel. + 39.081.5265780). One can also enjoy guided underwater diving
all year-round. (Contact the Calypso Diving Center, tel. +39.081.8662305.)
To learn more about this ancient port, invest in a copy of Puteoli,
a complete research text about the archaeological sites of the ancient
Roman colony, published by the Banco di Napoli (contact the Centro
Studi Banco di Napoli, tel. +39.081.7911111).
Visiting the Phlegraean Fields
Dotted with craters, lakes, volcanic
activity and archaeological sites, this fertile volcanic region
is named for ancient Phlegra, in Macedonia, where, Greek and Roman
mythology has it, great battles between the giants and the gods
took place. Today the Archaeological Museum of the Phlegraean Fields
is housed in the 16th century Baia Castle. On the coast west of
Pozzuoli, it was built on the ruins of the Roman palace of the Caesars
(tel. +39.081.5233797; closed Mondays).
All that remains of ancient Baia,
once famous for villas of emperors and patricians, are the ruins
of the baths (35 Via Fusaro; tel. +39.081.8687592). The rest,
mostly submerged under the sea, makes for a spectacular sightseeing
tour. Excursions to the underwater ruins in the area are organized
by the Misenum Association (tel. +39.081.5233977). Only 4 miles
from Pozzuoli lies an ancient Greek archaeological park, notable
for the cave where the Sybil pronounced her oracles, as well as
for the ruins of the Temple of Apollo (tel. +39.081.8543060).
The museums and archaeological sites in the area are open daily
from 9 am to one hour before sunset; entrance fee is about 2 euros.
