HISTORY |
Source:
SFGate
North Beach is that rare thing -- a neighborhood that manages
to be a
perennial hit with tourists, and also to remain beloved by San
Franciscans. It's best known as San Francisco's Little Italy,
with its
high density of check-clothed ristorantes, caffes and Old World
delicatessens. It's also a popular pilgrimage for fans of the
Beat
movement seeking the old haunts of Kerouac and Ginsberg. However,
North
Beach is no relic, and it has much to offer beyond pasta and poetry.This
vital neighborhood is home to some of the liveliest nightclubs
and
bars in town. Small boutiques carrying handmade clothing and imported
goods dot the streets, particularly on Upper Grant Avenue. Though
Italian
restaurants appear to dominate the dining scene, there are plenty
of other
good spots to try once you've had your fill of lasagna, with menus
featuring Japanese, French and contemporary fusion cuisine. City
Lights,
original publisher of Allen Ginsberg's "Howl," is still
one of the best
bookstores in San Francisco, and founder Lawrence Ferlinghetti
can
sometimes be seen strolling the neighborhood. Then there's Broadway,
buzzing with neon and strip clubs and adding an incongruous dash
of sleaze
to all the culture and history.
Part of the old Barbary Coast, North Beach is steeped in the past
-- Grant
Avenue itself is the oldest street in San Francisco. In the early
days,
North Point docks served as a gateway for immigrants from South
America,
Europe and the Australian penal colonies. It wasn't until the
late 1800s
that thousands of Italians made the area their stronghold and
turned it
into the local Latin Quarter. The Italian-American community can
also be
credited in part with protecting the neighborhood against the
fire that
swept the city after the 1906 earthquake. According to legend,
some
enterprising residents cracked open the barrels of red wine in
their
cellars and saved their houses by draping them with wine-soaked
blankets.
In more recent history, North Beach has produced some notable
people,
including baseball great Joe DiMaggio, who moved there at the
age of one
and grew up in a flat at Valparaiso and Taylor. Former San Francisco
mayor
Joseph Alioto was born in North Beach.
Whether prowling for historic landmarks, sampling house-roasted
espressos,
shopping, clubbing, or chowing down, you'll find North Beach has
plenty to
offer for both a leisurely afternoon visit and a night on the
town. Take a
detour off the main drag of Columbus and you're likely to run
across some
unexpected treasure of a shop, restaurant or spectacular view.
A word to
the wise: avoid driving if possible, or plan to use a parking
garage, as
street parking in the area is notoriously scarce. Instead, try
taking one
of the three major bus lines (#15, #30 and #45) or two Cable Car
lines
that pass through the neighborhood.
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